Dilijan, Armenia

If Yerevan is the mind of Armenia, then Dilijan, about 60 miles north of Armenia's capital, is the nation's heart.  This town of 16,000 is a world away from Yerevan.  Old stone and wood houses make for a soothing walk.  Surrounded by Dilijan are square miles after square miles of farms, at which produce including walnuts, stone fruits, pomegranates, and grains are grown--making Armenia a rich center for agriculture.  Some food processing occurs here, and there is a smidgen of services: the Central Bank of Armenia is reported to move many of there operations here by 2013.

Dilijan is a microcosm of what Armenia is now and what it could be:  a balance between the old sectors like agriculture, and services, of which outsourcing could bring jobs to a population that is highly skilled but needs the right opportunities in order to make a decent living.

The following pictures were taken in our 2003 visit.  Enjoy!

A door to Dilijan

An view of Dilijan

The architectural features make Dilijan rich

A chat with some locals

Stone wall with a hint of patina

Street scene, Dilijan

another view of Dilijan

Randolph, Vermont

After visiting Vermont for a Ben & Jerry's event, I have to share my enthusiasm for Vermont.  Vermont represents what many Americans long for and yet what most of us would avoid if the reality was dropped in front of us.  Vermont is gorgeous, especially in the fall, and while I never use this cliched word, let's face it:  this tiny state, once an independent country, is bucolic.

Randolph is one of many picturesque towns throughout Vermont.  The town is home to just under 5,000 people, most of whom are entrepreneurial:  you have got to be if you are going to live in this very rural state.

The town is the meeting area for the local region, and is home to schools, stores, and services.  Its library is noted for its fine local jams (from what I have heard), and is typical of how locals make a living:  you need to know where to find those fine heirloom vegetables, maple syrup, and other local products for which Vermont is famous.  More than a few move to Vermont:  many thrive, others experience a winter and remember why they left Florida.

I'm sharing a few photos of this special town.

San Jose, Uruguay

San Jose de Mayo is between Montevideo, Uruguay, and Colonia, an old Portuguese town that is a favorite day trip destination for Buenos Aires residents. The town of 36,000 is a regional and commercial center, and is a microcosm of Uruguay: industry such as chemicals and paper are represented, as are dairy, packing houses, and cattle ranching.

The surrounding area is gorgeous for its peacefulness and simplicity. The romanticism of the gaucho may be long gone, but residents of the San Jose de Mayo are still very close to the earth. We happened to traipse through along Uruguay’s Route 1, and enjoyed the farms, ranches, and forests.

Zhuhai, China: the Other Shenzhen

Think of China, the world’s workshop, and chances are you are reminded of Shenzhen, the miracle city across the border from Hong Kong.

But there is another city that has is crucial to the world’s supply chain.

Zhuhai is a pleasant city of 1.5 million people that is across the border from Macau.  Like Shenzhen, it is a special economic zone that the Chinese government established in the 1980s.

Several large multinationals, including ExxonMobil, BP, Seimens, and Carrefour have a presence in Zhuhai.  Despite its massive economic and population growth, Zhuhai is a pleasant city to spend a few hours to take a break from casino-mad Macau; life as an expat here would be a fine option, too.

Much of China’s food and agricultural exports run through Zhuhai, as these photos suggest.  

Flores, Guatemala

For 36 years Guatemala suffered through a civil war that tore apart families and forced many to flee their country.  The small nation bordering Mexico has been war-free the past several years, but is still recovering: it is one of the 10 poorest nations in Latin America.

But there is hope.  The country has boosted agriculture exports: walk into a Trader Joe’s and those snap peas were probably grown in Guatemala.  Textiles are also manufactured in Guatemala, and some light industry and assembly exist.

Nevertheless, many Guatemalans still suffer from extreme poverty, especially its indigenous people, who make a visit to Guatemala rich from its cultural heritage.

One danger the nation faces is deforestation.  The government’s Cuatro Balam Plan hopes to increase tourism and sustainable agriculture in Petén, the northernmost departamento (department, or county) in Guatemala.  Eco-tourism is on the rise, and visitors flock to ancient Mayan sites like Tikal.

The capital of Petén is Flores, a charming town on Lake Petén Itza.  It sits on what was once an island, but now a bridge connects this colorful and charming town to nearby Santa Elana, where an open market drives local commerce.

Several years ago we spent Christmas in Guatemala, and spent a night in Flores.  Walking around the streets was a simple pleasure, so here are a few photos.

San Antonio, Chile

The largest freight port in Chile is also the busiest on the Pacific coast of South America. San Antonio, about an hour's drive from Santiago, is a pleasant city of about 85,000. Its climate is similar to that of Northern California's—and the local terrain is similar to the coast between San Francisco and Santa Cruz.

San Antonio is crucial to Chile's success as a major supplier of commodities, from crops like avocados to copper, which by most estimates account for 40% to 50% of Chile's GDP.

The town is marvelous window into middle class Chilean life. The waterfront is lined with restaurants and street vendors, but is not slick and touristy. While watching families pose for photos, the docks in the background work around the clock unloading and loading ships that will traipse around the Pacific Rim and world.

Nearby is Isla Negra, one of Pablo Neruda's home and apparently his favorite. Best of all, the area is accessible by colectivos, taxicabs that serve a fixed route and pick up and drop off passengers wherever they need to go.

Pomegranate Central: Yettem, CA

I thought I would go back to my roots and show a few pictures of Yettem, California.  Yettem is a small town just south of the Fresno County line in Tulare County, 11 miles north of Visalia.  The town is so small that chances are it will not show up on your GPS—it is generally considered to be part of Cutler.

Yettem was founded by Armenian immigrants over 100 years ago.  Many Armenians have left the town, but some still work in the citrus and pomegranate orchards, and St. Mary’s Church still serves the community.  One of their legacies is the pomegranate orchards in this region.  Pomegranates are one of the world’s oldest fruits, woven with a rich legacy of myths and of course, timeless recipes.

I drove through Yettem last January, taking a detour along state route CA-201.  I was struck by the fruit falling on the ground, the quiet except for the occasional passing truck, and the beauty of the pomegranates still hanging from the dormant trees.

In this age of a globalized food supply, it is easy to forget where our food comes from.  Driving through Yettem’s understated beauty, it is a shame that we do not visit the sources of our food more often.

I figured these pictures would be a fitting tribute to my grandmother, who emigrated from Armenia in the 1930s—she would have been 105 years old on Tuesday.

By the way, any foodie should have a bottle of pomegranate molasses in their pantry.  It does wonders for stews and meats!